Finally some pics

The cardreader came so here are the pics I promised you last night.

First, the Crack Feather & Fan blanket.

I love, love, love this yarn. Malabrigo in Aqua. Fantastic!

Here is the brioche scarf that is for the next class I teach. I am using Lamb’s Pride Worsted in Auburgine and Victorian Pink on size 8 needles.


So, there you have what I am knitting on at the moment. It’s a fun pattern to knit and the colors are a good match.

 

Single Crochet Beanie Pattern

Single Crochet Beanie  (as seen on my kids in dozens of previous photos)

Materials:

Worsted weight yarn

Size H or I hook

Chain 3, join with sl st

SC 6 in ring

Rnd 1: 2sc in each sc around, mark beginning of round with tail from chain cast on, 12 sts

Rnd 2: *1sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Rnd 3: *1sc in 2sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Rnd 4: *2sc in first sc, 1sc in next 3 sc; rep from * around

Rnd 5: *1sc in 4sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Rnd 6: *2sc in first sc, 1sc in next 5sc; rep from *around

Rnd 7: *1sc in 6sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Rnd 8: *2sc in first sc, 1sc in next 7sc; rep from *around

Rnd 9: *1sc in 8sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Rnd 10: *2sc in first sc, 1sc in next 9sc; rep from * around

Rnd 11: *1sc in 10sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from *around

Rnd 12: *2sc in first sc, 1sc in next 11sc; rep from * around

Rnd 13: *1sc in 12sc, 2sc in next sc; rep from * around

Round 14 until the hat is the desired length: sc in all sts around and around and around

I hope by this point you see the pattern emerging. I usually go to Rnd 13 for a mans hat, Rnd 11 for a youth or womens hat, Rnd 10 for a childs hat, Rnd 9 for a toddler hat and Rnd 8 for a baby hat.

This is more of a guideline pattern, you can make your first hat and then adjust the crown rounds to your desired size adding increases if needed by doing more rounds in the set pattern.

Enjoy!!

Beginning Socks Pattern

Beginning socks

Yarn: Nashua superwash creative focus or comparable yarn to match gauge

Needles: 6 US, 4 double point needles

Gauge: 6.5 sts/inch

Sizes: womens 8 (9)

Using long tail cast on, cast on very loosely 36 (40).

- Distribute sts as follows

Needle 1 (N1)- 9 (10), Needle 2 (N2) - 9 (10), Needle 3 (N3) - 18 (20)

- Join in the round being very careful not to twist.

- Start 2×2 rib for leg: k2, p2 around

- Work leg for 3.5 (3) inches

- Heel flap: working back and forth only on N3

Turn work, sl 1 st, purl across

Turn work, sl 1 st, knit across

Continue working those 2 rows until flap measures 2 2/3 inches long. End with a knit row.

- Turning the heel:

Turn work, sl 1 st, p9 (10), p2tog, p1, turn

Sl 1 st, k3 (4), ssk, k1, turn

*Sl 1 st, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog to close gap, p1, turn

Sl 1 st, k to 1 st before gap, ssk to close gap, k1, turn*

Repeat from * to * until all heel flap sts have been worked. End

with a knit row.

- Gusset: move half heel sts to new needle (N1).

PU 15 sts down side with N1 (already has 1/2 heel flap sts).

N2- Knit across instep sts.

Using 4th needle, PU 14sts along heel flap side. Transfer to N3 (already has 1/2 heel flap sts).

Next round start gussett decreases.

Start of round (row) is now center of heel.

Next round: N1- k18, k2tog N2- Knit N3- knit

*Next round: N1- k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1 N2- knit N3- k1, ssk, knit to end

*Next round: Knit all sts

- Repeat last 2 * rounds until you have decreased away all gussett stitches and have your original number of sts, 36 (40)

- Continue in stockinette st until foot measures 7 (7.5) inches from back of heel.

- Start toe decreasing:

*Next round: N1- k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1

N2- k1, ssk, k to 3 sts from end, k2tog, k1

N3- k1, ssk, k to end

*Next round: knit all sts

-Repeat last 2* rounds until 16 (20) sts remain.

knit N1 sts onto N3

- Now you have 8 (10) sts on N2 and 8 (10) sts on N3.

Graft together with kitchener stitch.

Weave in ends.

Knit second sock.

 

2 Socks on 1 Circ Pattern

 

2 Socks on 1 Circ

Taught by Chauntel

Materials needed:

Yarn: any sport weight yarn, approx. 300 yards wound into 2 separate balls

Needles: 32” or longer circular needle size 4 US

set of dpn’s size 4 US to be used as holders

Darning needle: for kitchener stitch

Gauge: 6 sts per inch

Sock sizes: womens 8”, (9”, 10”) leg circumference

if in doubt work one size smaller so it is snug & not falling down your leg

Instructions:

  • Using first ball of yarn and long tail cast on with enough tail to cast on the full amount of sts (44,48, 52), CO half of the total sts; 22 (24, 26) sts onto circular needle.

  • Using second ball of yarn, CO 44(48, 52) sts onto same end of needle.

    This is how it will look when moved down the needle:

  • Now separate the full set of cast on sts in half by pulling the cord between sts, forming a loop.

  • Move the front needle tip (bottom needle in the photo above) down towards the remaining cast on tail of the first sock.

  • Using the front needle tip, grab your working yarn and cast on tail in your hand ready to cast on the second half of your sock sts.

    Once you have the sts cast on,

    you will be ready to join and start working in the round as follows:

  • Being careful not to twist, pull the front needle tip down into the sts, making a loop on the left side of the sock sts. Pull back needle out far enough to have a decent sized loop on either end. You will now knit with the back needle (right needle). Join yarn on sock 1 (the sock on the right where both needle tips are) making sure the working yarn is coming between the two needles not wrapping around either needle, start knitting in 2×2 rib (k2, p2 across).

  • Repeat across sock #2 (the sock on the left).

  • Now turn your work so you can repeat across the second half of the sock sts; pull the front needle into the sts and pull the back needle out forming a loop.

    One round is now complete.

  • Continue to turn after working both socks.

    Note: At the start of each ½ round your working yarn should always be on the back needle, right hand side or top-right.

  • Work 2×2 ribbing for 2”.

  • Switch to stockinette st (knitting all sts around). Work leg for an additional 4” (6” total from cast on edge).

    Heel flap:

    You will now work back and forth on half of the sock sts to make a flap.

    Turn your work but do not move your needle tips, keeping your sts just knit on the needle tip.

  • Slip 1st, *k1, sl1pw*,rep *to* around, end k1

  • Turn, sl1st, purl across

  • Repeat those 2 rows until heel flap measures 2 2/3”- 3”. End with a purl row.

Turning the heel:

    Now, working one sock heel at a time, we are going to turn the heel and pick up gusset stitches.

  • Hold work with right side facing

  • Starting with sock 1, sl1, knit half of your total heel flap sts 11 (12, 13), ssk, k1, turn

  • sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn

  • *sl1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk to close gap, k1, turn

  • *sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog to close gap, p1, turn

    Repeat last 2* rows until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a knit row.

  • Using same needle tip, pick up sts (using the sl st along edge of heel flap).

  • Now move to the second sock, turn heel & pick up sts along one side, the same as with the first sock.

  • Knit across the instep sts of sock 2.

  • Using a dpn, pu sts along other heel flap edge. Leave these sts on the dpn for now.

  • Work across the instep sts on sock 1 with magic loop needles. Again, pu sts along edge as on sock 2.

  • Turn your work as if to knit across the heel sts, pulling your needles through to make your loop on the left side. Move sts from spare needle over. Knit to center of heel sts, place marker (this now denotes the start of every round).

  • Knit across the heel sts to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

  • Sock 2, move sts from spare needle to right hand needle. Knit to center, place marker, *k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

    Note: now all of your heel sts are back onto one side of your needle and all instep sts are on the other side.

    Gusset decreases:

  • Knit instep sts on both socks.

  • Turn and pull needles through to make loops.

  • K1, ssk, k across heel sts to marker, slm.

    That is the end of a decrease round on sock 1.

  • Knit the second half of the heel sts on sock 1.

  • Move to sock 2, k1, ssk, k across heel sts to marker, slm.

    That is the end of a decrease round on sock 2.

  • Knit the second half of the heel sts on sock 2.

  • Knit the instep sts, k back up to the marker.

    Note: I know this sounds confusing as to where the decrease round and knit rounds start and finish. Another way to visualize this is to make a diagram of each round. Using this picture as a guideline:

  • You will continue with these 2 rounds, a decrease round and a knit round until you have decreased away all of your gusset sts and have returned to your original stitch count, 44 (48, 52).

  • Now you can work the feet of the socks in stockinette st until it measures 2” from desired length. Or you can follow the general sizing I give below.

    6.75”- womens size 7

    7”- womens size 8

    7.25”- womens size 9

    7.5”- womens size 10

  • Start wedge toe shaping: remembering the start of every round is in the center of your heel sts.

  • *knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

  • instep sts: k1, ssk, knit to 3 from end, k2tog, k1

  • heel sts: k1, ssk, knit to marker

  • *knit all sts around

  • Repeat these last 2* rounds until you have decreased down to 20 sts total on each sock.

  • Kitchener stitch closed.

VOILA!

YOU HAVE FINISHED 2 SOCKS AT ONCE!

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK & HAVE A TREAT!

Copyright Chauntel Andreasen

Feel free to visit my blog at

http://www.firebrunetteknitting.com

2 Socks on 2 Circs pattern

 

2 Socks on 2 Circs

Taught by Chauntel

Materials needed:

Yarn: any sport weight yarn, approx. 300 yards wound into 2 separate balls

I am using Kathmandu DK, 2 balls

Needles: 2 24” circular needles in size 4 US

set of dpn’s size 4 US to be used as holders

Darning needle: for kitchener stitch

Gauge: 6 sts per inch

Sock sizes: womens 8”, (9”, 10”) leg circumference

if in doubt work one size smaller so it is snug & not falling down your leg

  • Using first ball of yarn, CO 44 (48, 52) sts onto first circular needle.

  • Now move the sts to the left end of the needle like this:

  • Now transfer half of the sts to the second circular needle and move all sts on both needles down to the right side end, so it looks like this:

Note: Needle 1 (N1) is the needle with the second half of the stitches- without the yarn tail from the cast on, these are the heel sts.

Needle 2 (N2) is the needle with the half of the sts with the yarn tail from the cast on and the working yarn, these are the instep sts.

  • Position needles in front of you so that N2 is in the back (as show in the picture above), N1 is in front.

  • Now using the other end of N1, CO 44 (48, 52) sts from the second ball of yarn.

  • Slide half of the sts to N2 just like we did with the first set of sts. Move all the sts onto the cables as pictured below, making sure to keep the cast on edge to the center so you do not get twisted.

  • Now, being careful not to twist, join yarn on sock 1 (the sock on the right) using N1as follows: pulling on the left side of N1, scoot the sts onto the right side needle tip. Now pick up the left end of N1 and using these two needles, making sure the working yarn is coming between the two needles not wrapping around either needle, start knitting in 2×2 rib (k2, p2 across).

Note: N2 is going to hang across the back acting as a stitch holder for the second half of the sock sts.

  • Repeat across sock #2 (the sock on the left).

  • Now turn your work so you can repeat across N2.

One round is now complete.

  • Continue to turn after working both socks.

Note: At the start of each ½ round your working yarn should always be on the back needle, right hand side or top-right.

  • Work ribbing for 2”.

  • Switch to stockinette st (knitting all sts around). Work leg for an additional 4” (6” total from cast on edge).

Heel flap:

  • Using only N1, sl1st, *k1, sl1pw*,rep *to* around, end k1

  • Turn, sl1st, purl across

  • Repeat those 2 rows until heel flap measures 2 2/3”- 3”. End with a purl row.

Turning the heel:

Now, working one sock heel at a time, we are going to turn the heel and pick up gusset stitches.

  • Hold work with right side facing

  • Starting with sock 1, sl1, knit half of your total heel flap sts 22 (24, 26), ssk, k1, turn

  • sl1, p4, p2tog, p1, turn

  • *sl1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk to close gap, k1, turn

  • *sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog to close gap, p1, turn

Repeat last 2* rows until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a knit row.

  • Using N1, pick up sts (using the sl st along edge of heel flap).

  • Now move to the second sock, turn heel & pick up sts along one side, the same as with the first sock.

  • Switch to N2, knit across the instep sts of sock 2.

  • Using a dpn, pu sts along other heel flap edge. Leave these sts on the dpn for now.

  • Work across the instep sts on sock 1. Again, pu sts along edge as on sock 2.

  • Using N1, move sts from spare needle over. Knit to center of heel sts, place marker (this now denotes the start of every round).

  • Knit across the heel sts to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

  • Sock 2, move sts from spare needle to right hand needle. Knit to center, place marker, *k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

Note: now all of your heel sts are back onto N2 and all instep sts are on N1

Gusset decreases:

  • N2: Knit instep sts on both socks

  • N1: K1, ssk, k across heel sts to marker

That is the end of a decrease round on sock 1.

  • Still on N1, knit the second half of the heel sts on sock 1.

  • Move to sock 2, k1, ssk, k across heel sts to marker

That is the end of a decrease round on sock 2.

  • Still on N1, knit the second half of the heel sts on sock 2.

Note: I know this sounds confusing as to where the decrease round and knit rounds start and finish. Another way to visualize this is to make a diagram of each round.

  • You will continue with these 2 rounds, a decrease round and a knit round until you have decreased away all of your gusset sts and have returned to your original stitch count, 44 (48, 52).

  • Now you can work the feet of the socks in stockinette st until it measures 2” from desired length. Or you can follow the general sizing I give below.

6 1/2”- womens size 7

7”- womens size 8

7 1/2”- womens size 9

8”- womens size 10

  • Shape the toe in whatever way pleases you most!!!

VOILA!

YOU HAVE FINISHED 2 SOCKS AT ONCE!

PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK & HAVE A TREAT!

Copyright Chauntel Andreasen

Feel free to visit my blog at

http://www.firebrunetteknitting.com

Fair Isle Hat Pattern

Magic Loop Baby Hat Pattern

Magic Loop baby hat

Using size 8 US needle at least 32″ long and worsted weight yarn,

Cast on 44 sts, separate in half onto the 2 needle points.

Join in the round and start 2×2 rib or seed stitch.

Continue ribbing for 1 inch.

Start stockinette stitch, work until hat measures 3.5 inches.

Start decreasing cap as follows:

*k10, k2tog* rep from * to * around.

Knit next round.

*k9, k2tog* rep from *to* around.

Knit next round.

*k8, k2tog* rep from *to* around.

Continue decreasing in this manner until you have 8 sts left.

Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts, pull tight to close.

Darn in ends.

There is stuff

I do have stuff to post about but for tonight you just get a simple update.

Mom got her vest & wore it the day it came in the mail. I have heard from one of my sisters’ that she really does like it & it’s perfect (sometimes you can’t trust that the recipient isn’t just saying it’s perfect to make you feel good, I really want it to be perfect).

I started a Brioche Scarf project that I will be teaching a workshop in October at Knit & Pearl. It’s a fun, easy pattern so I am hoping to get it done in the next few days to get it to the shop for display.

I pulled out 2 blankets, the Ruched silk blanket that has been on needles for over 3 years. And the Crack Feather & Fan blanket that I cast on last December ‘06. Crack being Malabrigo that I scored on Ebay (13 hanks for $31, don’t hate me), Feather & Fan being the shawl pattern from A Gathering of Lace. I made the shawl & decided it would make a fantastic blanket. It will make a fantastic blanket. It will just take a while to knit, that’s all. Plus the colors don’t match anything in my house but I don’t care, it’s Crack.

I did get about 40 rows done on the body of the Trapeze Jacket after finishing the vest then pulling out the blankets stopped me short. That sweater ain’t happenin’ fast but it is goin’ to happen!

So tomorrow after my 6-in-1 card reader gets here I will post pics of all the aforementioned projects.

Until then, Ciao!

Crochet Water Bottle Holder

I whipped up this thing for useful purposes only. Not the cutest, not the fanciest, just useful. As some knitting/crocheting should be.

I walk the kids to school everyday and hate to carry a bag with water, etc in it. I wear a down vest that has pockets for my phone, earbuds & tissues. My knitting sack has a d-ring I attach to the inside of my vest & it hangs right below the bottom of the vest so I can knit while I am walking or sitting at the school. The only thing left is my coffee mug in the morning & my water bottle in the afternoon. Tada! I made my own carrier to fix that problem! Now both hands will be free to knit to & from school. Brilliant!

Crochet Water Bottle Holder

I posted a new photo to FinishedprojectsPhotos.